A global fashion row has unexpectedly revived one of India’s oldest artisan crafts. Traditional Kolhapuri sandals are experiencing a sharp surge in demand after luxury giant Prada showcased a sandal design at Milan Fashion Week that closely resembled the iconic Indian chappal — without acknowledging its cultural roots.
What started as outrage over cultural appropriation has quickly turned into a business boom for local sellers and artisans. Riding a wave of social media buzz and nationalist pride, brands and small businesses are reporting record orders. Platforms like Shopkop and Niira have seen orders multiply as customers rally to support the original craft and its makers.
Mumbai-based brand Ira Soles was quick to tap into the moment, launching witty ads that read: “Tan Handcrafted Kolhapuris just walked the ramp at Prada… Limited stock. Global spotlight. Own a piece of what the world is applauding.” The result: a surge in sales. Niira, too, has reported a threefold rise in orders, offering discounts of up to 50% to meet demand.
The Kolhapuri sandals, a handmade leather slipper tracing back to the 12th century in Maharashtra, has long struggled to compete with modern mass-produced footwear. An estimated 7,000 artisans still craft these sandals by hand, but low returns and changing trends have kept the craft under threat for years. For many, Prada’s misstep has turned into an unexpected turning point.
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Social media outrage peaked after Rahul Parasu Kamble of Shopkop published an open letter calling out the design’s uncredited roots. The letter, shared over 36,000 times, described Kolhapuri sandals as “soaked in tradition,” sparking a wider conversation about global fashion ethics. Indian trade bodies and political leaders also weighed in, pushing Prada to acknowledge the sandals’ Indian heritage and express openness to working with local makers in the future.
The renewed spotlight on ethnic footwear comes just as another big global brand, Crocs Inc., returns to Indian courts to revive its long-running lawsuits against local companies like Bata India, Relaxo, and Liberty for allegedly copying its signature clogs. Crocs’ claims play out in a ₹33,860 crore Indian footwear market, where nearly all sales still come from affordable, non-luxury products.
Yet for artisans like Ashok Doiphode, who earns just ₹400 for each Kolhapuri sandals pair he hand-stitches over nine hours, this moment holds fresh hope. “If big companies like Prada come, craftsmen like me can get a good price,” he said.
